Showing posts with label etiquette. Show all posts
Showing posts with label etiquette. Show all posts

27 July 2013

Travel in... Kyrgyzstan

Apart from a map of where it is (between China and Kazakhstan), five tips for the Switzerland of Central Asia

The Silk Road - the ancient series of trade routes between China and Europe - passed through Kyrgyzstan
1.  Pack a torch for those trips to the loo (not just at night). Kyrgyzstan is a country of yurts, yaks and yoghurt - all of which combine on the breathtaking high mountain pastures (or jailoo) that are the reason most visitors come to the country. The best way to appreciate the jailoos is to stay in a yurt, a traditional round felt dwelling nomads use while grazing their cattle, sheep and - you guessed it - yaks. The yurts are almost unchanged from their original construction: some may boast a solar-powered light inside, but other than that there are no mod-cons. Toilets are hole-in-the-ground outhouses some distance from the yurt. Outside of the capital, Bishkek, Soviet-era legacy electrical wiring may mean the torch comes in handy in the cities too. 

2. Take a break from being vegetarian. Local cuisine reflects the traditional Kyrgyz nomadic culture: boiled carbs served with carbs, lots of fatty meat and bread. Examples include manti (meat-filled dumplings), beshbarmak (noodles with five types of meat) and shashlyk (grilled kebabs, where one chunk can be pure fat). Food originating from the Uzbek community - like dimlama (boiled meat, potatoes, cabbage and onion) and plov (fried rice) - has vegetables, but meat is still an essential ingredient. If you're invited to a local host's house, often the honoured guest will be given the meat bone to finish off. Refusing such an honour is irredeemably rude. 
A big bowl of plov - everyone digs in


In the summer months, however, the markets are full of delicious in-season fruits like cherries and watermelon. There are also no end of dairy-based products - most have a salty, sour taste. No trip to Kyrgyzstan is complete with trying the slightly alcoholic kymys, fermented mare's milk. Sip it. You have been warned.


3. Bring sunscreen. While it may feel deceptively balmy during the summer months up in the mountains, the sun is strong and you'll need protection while you're out in it enjoying all that trekking. Kyrgyzstan may not have the abundant oil and gas resources of its much larger neighbour to the north, but it does have exceptionally beautiful scenery. This makes it an ideal destination for hiking and horse-trekking in the summer and skiing in the winter. You can do a three day hike from near the capital to the high mountain pasture Lake Song-Kul or go horse-trekking near Lake Issyk-Kul. There's a reason they call it the Switzerland of Central Asia

4. Wear a wedding ring - if you look younger than 24 years old. And that's a Central Asian 24; women here tend to age faster as they take on domestic chores and lots of child-rearing (abortion is the preferred method of birth control). Bride kidnapping is thankfully getting rarer, but most women are expected to be married by 24. Although the Soviets introduced education for women, a woman's lot is still tough. Even in the cities, women are expected to move in with their in-laws and do all the domestic chores for the whole family. A (demonstrably, daily) clean house means she is a good daughter-in-law and she will be expected to prepare and serve feasts and tea for guests to the house. Be prepared for questions about your husband and kids. 
A park in Osh - the second largest city


5. Take a Russian phrasebook, or a friend who speaks Russian and can read cyrillic. The younger, educated generation are learning English, but Kyrgyzstan remains in the Russian sphere of influence (Kyrgyzstan is the only country to host both American and Russian military bases). The country has Kyrgyz, Uzbek and Tajik communities - they'll most likely speak Russian to each other. In the western areas of the country, near the Uzbek border, deadly riots have taken place between Kyrgyz and Uzbek communities; it is wise to speak Russian rather than each of those languages to avoid giving offence or be seen to take sides.

11 April 2013

Work in... Dubai

Five top tips on how to dress for work in the UAE's party town

Makes getting dressed in the morning much easier
1. Stay stylish, but modest  In general, Dubai residents - including expats - favour stylish outfits whatever the occasion. Office work-wear in the emirate is no different: you'll see slick skirt suits, well-tailored trousers and blouses, dresses and chic jackets. While it may all seem familiar, expat residents favour the trouser suit, or dresses and skirts below the knee with sleeves down to the elbow, to get a different reception. Which brings us to...

2. ...No need to wear a head scarf... unless you visit a mosque. Local women and Arab nationals take their fashion very seriously. Abeyas (the black head-to-toe covering) can be beautifully embellished and embroidered; head scarves can be boldly patterned and worn with plenty of matching accessories. You'll see the modesty warnings at the entrance to malls - be sensible and avoid wearing beachwear or hotpants or the like. 

3. Pack a pair of heels  Whether peeking out from underneath an abeya or teamed with a sharp suit, high-heeled court shoes are de rigeur for professional women. The combination of not having to walk anywhere or run for a bus plus the city's glamorous image means Dubai is a high heel friendly place. But exercise caution: the very shiny marble floors in most buildings are deceptively slippery and leave the 6-inch tottering shoes to the sun-seeking tourists. 

4. Beware the ubiquitous air con  Summer temperatures frequently pass the 40 degree Celsius mark in summer and rarely drop below 20 degrees during the daytime in winter. All buildings are air conditioned throughout the year and while this provides relief from the heat outside, many offices over compensate by blasting you with freezing cold air. If you're sitting at a desk all day and not moving around much, a cardigan or light jacket will sort you out. 

5. Consider wearing a wedding ring  Even for expats, being married (or looking like you are) provides benefits. There are plenty of single female expats, but wearing a wedding ring look-a-like can help save you from awkward moments when doing business in the Gulf if you're working with non-multinational companies. It's also helpful when just out and about: many workers from the sub-continent or the rest of the region haven't seen their wives in years; wearing a ring can help put down a marker and encourage wandering eyes to shift their attention elsewhere.

3 April 2013

Travel in ... Burma (Myanmar)

Rose tells us her experience and advice for what to wear, food, trains and monks in Yangon (Rangoon) and Mandalay, Burma. 

2 April 2013

Work in ... Ethiopia

Five top tips for living (well, working) the high life


Sophie, who works for an international development consultancy, provides her insight on working in the country best known for eccentric emperors and ancient Christian history


1. Stay hydrated and take it slow at the gym!  Many travellers take Ethiopia's impressive altitude for granted: Addis Ababa is the second highest capital in the world at 2,300 metres above sea level. It's harder to get to sleep, even climbing the stairs can take it out of you and a vigorous gym session will be more challenging than usual - take it easy! Drinks lots of water and don't overdo the workouts. 

2. Be on time and don't interrupt  Ethiopians are punctual in business matters and very polite in initial meetings. There is a protocol for who should speak when - people take turns and the person you're speaking to may pause before answering your question. Don't be alarmed or tempted to jump in - speak clearly and carefully wait for your colleague to respond. 

3. Drink coffee, but not too much...  Coffee is a staple of Ethiopian culture and in most meetings you will likely be offered one. Machiatto is often the most popular; it's delicious but beware - it's strong enough to make your heart race! Try alternating coffees with milky tea - shai ba wotet - to keep your heart steady. 

Getting around can be fun, but expensive
4.  Check taxi rates with local hotel staff  The little blue and white ladas, the typical Ethiopian taxis, are cute and fun but beware: as in many countries you can be charged extortionate rates as a foreigner. Hotel staff are usually happy to advise how much you should pay for a given journey. Check in advance to get the best out of your negotiations!

5. Plan internal travel ahead of time and get security advice  Addis has a good airport and road system and is safe for a capital city. But other parts of Ethiopia can be more unpredictable and internal flights often get booked up a week in advance. Plan your itinerary well ahead of time and get up to date advice from your embassy on modes of transport and where it's safe to stay in more remote locations. 

10 February 2013

Work in ... South Sudan

Five top tips for working in the world's youngest country


With female police officers waiting for training to begin
1. Take emergency snacks  The number of restaurants is increasing in Juba, the capital, but lunchtime options are limited. Having cereal bars, biscuits and other non-melting snack items in your bag is great for quelling hunger pangs when you just can’t face another club sandwich and chips, dry samosa, or greasy Chinese.


2. Dress smartly for meetings  While you can get away with dresses, smart-ish trousers and shirts at NGO-gatherings or meetings with other expats, meetings with counterparts are more formal. You don't need to cover your hair in South Sudan, but it is advisable to cover your shoulders and knees for formal meetings. Your counterparts are likely to be in suits and will expect you to be suitably attired. Make sure you wear a smart jacket at least – and grin and bear the heat when the air-con fails.
3. Your dirty laundry will be aired in public  If you surrender your clothes to the hotel or guesthouse laundry, your clothes will most likely be dried outside on lines. This is an important point to remember as you pack your dainty, lacy knickers (although you don't need to go as far as paper pants). 

John Garang Memorial Ground, Juba
4. Getting exercise... Certain hotels have some sort of gym facilities (running machine, rowing machine), but the options are limited. For those who get bored of these options, or want to avoid the testosterone, ask around other women for hotels where groups get together to run their own yoga or aerobics classes – perfect for stretching out joints after too long spent on pitted roads. Another option is to take out your own yoga DVD and practice in the comfort and privacy of your room. Central Pub runs salsa classes once a week for a more fun way to get moving.
5. Hygiene – bring your own supplies  Well obviously there isn’t a Boots on every street corner so stock up on feminine hygiene products before you arrive, especially tampons – you'll find them much more easily and cheaper at home.